Samuel Johnson

I believe in the power of the wearer within fashion. One garment can represent contrasting meanings in an assorted society, whether it be age, height or race. Using this ethos I try and design using contrasting elements and references, to create clothes that have different interpretations, for every individual person.

I like to keep a sense of fun and quirkiness to fashion, through use of silhouette, details, fabrics and especially colour. Yet I still try and create refinement in my garments. The research that inspires me often has a social edge, in a variety of medians; photographers, fashion, art, architecture, film, literature, music and other sources, as long as I feel it has a powerful message to myself. When creating fashion I endeavour to use an artistic methodology.

“ Most people go through life dreading they'll have a traumatic experience. Freaks were born with their trauma. They've already passed their test in life. They're aristocrats." Diane Arbus

Using the work of Diane Arbus, in particular her subjects, as the main ideology, and contrasting it with her own social background, to create a collection, which harmonises and highlights societies’ opposing ends of the spectrum.

Capturing the subjects in an ugly yet charming way conceived the collection. The blunt sexuality, mixed with true naivety is an idea, used throughout these designs. Much of the focus went on silhouette, making them attract attention, to create a sense of “freaks”. The silhouette shapes were experimented by constructing volume with pleats and tutus, and constraint with belts and ties.

There is no stereotypical “freak”. To ensure this message to the collection, it was not constricted by the shape, size or age of women when designing. The “freaks” total lack of self awareness, allows for them not to care how other people see them, unlike the rest of society, an idea used throughout the designing process.

The aristocratic background of Diane led the details research to look at the 1950’s socialite scene in New York. Scrutinizing 1950s movies set in New York, inspiration was instantly encountered in costumes featured in “All About Eve” designed by Edith Head. The crispness of her look and the sharp details such as the overuse of buttons and lace, created a quirky, ugly-pretty juxtaposition with the silhouettes used in the collection.

Using natural cottons and wools, heavy and light, to help create a homemade quality, However juxtaposed using silks, fur, chiffons and lace in a effective way as supported by the 1950s socialite research. The collection was designed to emphasise society’s inner freaks, and to embrace them, in a fun and unconventional approach.





Photographer: Sean Michael www.walterhugo.co.uk

Model: Fern Thomas @ Select Model Management London www.selectmodel.com