Phèdre J. Calvados is a French Caribbean fashion designer born in Paris who currently lives in London. After graduating from a BA in Fashion design at the Atelier Chardon-Savard (Paris) she get the opportunity to intern for McQ Alexander McQueen’s studios in London. This outstanding experience within the shoes department convinced her to pursue a career in footwear design. With a great interest in sculptural designs and textured surfaces - which characterize her work- she enrolls on a MA Fashion Footwear course at London College of Fashion.
'Reslience: Limited foot scaffolding' is her first footwear collection. This powerful and dramatic collection aims at highlighting the parallel between the experience of pain and the idea of pain. What our mind visually assimilates as painful is explored through the use of optical illusions, by suggesting a manipulated body posture as well as potentially torturous objects.
Deriving from a personal story, Resilience consists of six pairs of sculptural elevated footwear which seem to affect the wearer’s stance and gait. The range suggests a footwear that manipulates and takes control over the body. They visually point out a language of structure and scaffolding that characterizes formative social and educational construction imposed to young adults.
The iconic bed of nails structure is the starting point to this project and serves as a strong story-telling anchor. The aesthetic features of the Indian paduka have been adopted in order to support and play with the illusion of comfort and discomfort and allow to arise the question of juxtaposition of physical and mental strengths.
Photography by Louise Kragh